I, like many others, viewed Northern Ireland through the media and in my case a handful of books that I had read on the troubles. I did not, and arguably still do not, understand why there is such a strength of feeling about whether or not Northern Ireland should unite with the Republic or remain in the Union. This is an interesting question given the impending Scottish vote on independence in September. It had not occurred to me that a 'yes' vote would have far reaching implications in Ulster, this was pointed out by my hosts when I visited last week. What was abundantly clear from my visit is that there remains a very strong feeling within both the Republican and Unionist camps.
This blog is not intended to examine the rights or wrongs of the troubles nor the extremely complex and diverse range of political and paramilitary dynamics of the situation. I think is is safe to say that most would like there to be a solution that satisfies all but it is difficult to see at what point in time that will genuinely be achieved. This blog is, in fact, just about my visit so that is to where I shall return.
What did Belfast mean to me? Well apart from the media, I have heard of the songs such as Boney M 's Belfast and Spandau Ballet's Through The Barricades and Katie Melua's Penguins and Cats. Some were just a bit too subtle for me to get and quite frankly, along with many other such inspired songs, I was really just enjoying the tune. I will view these slightly differently from now on, having been enriched by the experience of my visit.
Due to my work I was required to do a few checks before I visited the region, in short this was to confirm that it was safe for me to visit and also to be briefed on the areas of the region and Belfast that were dangerous and safe. In essence if you can imagine wearing a Sunderland football shirt in a crowd of Newcastle fans when their team has just been thrashed at a local derby match, it is not a wise place to be and like Belfast, there are affiliated pubs and clubs that you would do well to avoid. On a different scale imagine the Israeli/Arab division and you get the picture. I obtained permission to go, I therefore booked my flight.
In terms of personal security, the best form under such circumstances is to be inconspicuous and as such this involves being careful about what you wear, what you say and any other possible indications that could put you at risk. In my case I sanitised by wallet and carefully checked my clothing to make sure that there was nothing provocative. As for speech, well I cannot disguise my accent and I am not going to try some dodgy impersonation of a local, as amusing as that might be. No, the decision on what can or cannot be said depends upon the environment, if in doubt then avoid certain subjects. Despite the obvious interest and desire to explore the polictical situation, this is clearly an area that can get you into trouble. In any event I took my lead from my hosts.
When I arrived I was a little apprehensive and I viewed everyone around me with suspicion, irrational maybe? Well how would I know? I did end up chatting to a couple who sat next to me on the plane, they were quite pleasant but I was very aware of what I was saying and what they were asking of me. When I landed there was truly nothing remarkable about the airport and the collection of baggage. In fact they had a dog which was sniffing the bags as they came through. I am not sure whether it was weapons, drugs, explosives or some other illicit material that they were after but it was entertaining to watch them at work. I just hoped that my bag would not arouse any suspicion, there was of course nothing illegal in my bag...as far as I was aware.
My mate had flown over earlier and he was waiting with our hosts on the other side of arrivals. We started off by getting a short tour and I was doing my best to listen to the commentary and banter that was flying about. We dropped by on the Northern Ireland Parliament building at Stormont, it is quite impressive as can be seen from the photo.
I was particularly impressed by the wide tree lined boulevard and how open it felt. The pink ribbon around the lamp posts indicated the forthcoming cycling race that was due to be held. Our hosts graciously took us around the city and, after some debate this included seeing some of the murals for which the city is well known.
I was particularly impressed by the wide tree lined boulevard and how open it felt. The pink ribbon around the lamp posts indicated the forthcoming cycling race that was due to be held. Our hosts graciously took us around the city and, after some debate this included seeing some of the murals for which the city is well known.
Whilst being driven around I was offered the opportunity to take some photos I, initially being concerned that being seen taking photos might attract some unwanted attention, was told that the Loyalist areas were 'safe' but that we would not stop when transiting through the Republican areas. Helpfully enough you can tell the affiliation of each area as the Republican areas have Irish Tricolours and the Loyalist areas have Union Flags, this seems obvious really but to an outsider it is a novel sight. It must be a bit like LA gangs with their tags marking out the territory, it is quite helpful to the outsider. I took a number of photos as shown below but none of the Republican areas, in fact I was told to hide my camera in case we were being 'dicked', which is identified and targeted by Republican sympathisers.
A memorial to those who gave their lives during The Great War, this appears in a regular residential area, is in pristine condition and shows the Ulster Tower built on the site where the 36th Ulster Division participated in the battle of the Somme in July 1916. It was purely coincidental that I would visit this same tower in France the following week.
This is one of a series of murals on bungalows that run along this street, I did not note the name but I was told that it is on the border of a Republican/Loyalist area, renown for shootings. The mural marks the formation of the Ulster Defence Association, a loyalist paramilitary organisation that aims to protect the protestant community from Republican violence. There are a range of different groups on both sides and with varying degrees of extremism, most have signed up to the Peace Accord, but it remains fragile.
This is a memorial to the 36th Ulster Division raised to fight during the 1st World War. It is impressive not only in terms of what it is commemorating but also with the vibrant colours, quality of detail and the fact that it has not been defaced in any way.
This mural marks the evacuation of refugees trying to escape the violence in 1971, it also recognises the part that the city of Liverpool played in housing those who moved.
There were equally impressive murals on the Republican side, although I did not have the opportunity to view them in as much detail. It is interesting that a new one was being painted of Gerry Adams, who had recently been arrested and was being held in connection with an investigation into the disappearance of Mrs Jean McConville. We drove past this as it was being painted. Gerry Adams was released later on without charge. It is possible to write an entire blog on the complexities of that arrest alone, the context, the moral and ethical aspects and the inevitable political aspects that cannot be separated from them. During our visit we anticipated a spot of bother and were cognisant of the implications.
I might add that the reason the murals were all so well presented and not defaced probably has a lot to do with the repercussions should anyone be stupid enough to attack them. If they value their knees and or testicles then they would do best to leave them alone.
Whilst driving about I remarked that it seems like any other street in the UK, to which my hosts responded 'apart from the Tricolour and Union flags, barricades, armoured Landrovers and police stations that are literally built like fortresses?' Although I felt a bit silly, the fact remains that if you are not looking for these things then you could easily forget about where you are and the dangers that are present. During the visit the ongoing protest about flying the Union flag at Belfast City Hall was in evidence as we were detoured away from the building and past about 40 white armoured Landrovers waiting to be called into action should the crowd become more volatile. I wished I had taken some photos of them, but we did not stop.
During the weekend there were three other highlights, the dinner, the visit to the Titanic Experience museum and the visit to a band competition.
The first of these was a dinner, which was pleasant. I cannot say too much about this other than that there were many interesting people there from all sorts of backgrounds and I did not have the opportunity to chat further about their experiences. I am always seeking to improve my understanding of history and things in general so I was keen to listen to them.
The visit to the Titanic Experience was something I would strongly recommend to anyone who is visiting the region. The museum is built at the head of the slipway upon which the Titanic was built. In fact one of the exhibits is a video of the ship being launched, which is projected onto a window and that in turn fades to show the actual view of the slipway outside. The museum covers a lot of the history of Belfast and it's prominence in the industrial revolution and at the turn of the 20th Century. You can learn not only about the ship itself but the people, the socio economic situation and the technical challenges of the day to construct such an impressive ship. An interesting moment was an exhibit that is effectively a three sided room with walls that are giant TV screens. On the screens is a projection of the interior of the Titanic, starting at the bottom of the ship and moving vertically through the decks until you get to the bridge of the ship. The only snag is that this projection does not just move vertically but it also rotates as well. It is not, therefore, a great experience for several men who are recovering from a heavy drinking session the night before, we did well not to throw up. The other very impressive exhibits were a movie, which showed the exploration of the wreck and a glass floor which you could then view the wreck as a video sweeping from aft to forward. Apparently there is a unique micro-organism that is eating the rust of the ship and therefore eventually it will disappear, save for a few odd bits. The environment is reclaiming the ship, which is helpful given the number of wrecks out there.
If you do get the chance to visit Belfast then check out the website here first and see if you fancy going to the museum The Titanic Experience.
The last experience I had was the opportunity to view around 30 marching bands, which were competing for prizes. Now normally this would not get a lot of people excited, especially given the stereotypical view held of such competitions, a bit geeky to say the least. Anyway, this is Northern Ireland so naturally things were different. What I was witness to could best be described as a military parade except that there were no platoons of sailors, soldiers and airmen following the bands. It was one band after another. It was extremely popular judging by the crowds and also a bit of a social event having seen the volume of alcohol being consumed. The bands had a colour party, wore very expensive and military style uniforms, had a bass drum and a contingent of other musicians. The ages ranged from children as young as 5 to adults, although none were beyond the age of maybe 35 or so, from what I noticed. The marching was very smart and would put some regular military platoons to shame, the bass drummer was a massive, usually bald headed, slightly overweight individual and they were banging this drum like it was going out of fashion. I noticed that it was not used to keep the parade in step, as they usually are and the reason for this, I was told, is that there are points to be scored for the loudest drummer in the parade. Whenever the bands came into close proximity (usually when marching in opposite directions) they would play even louder to try and outdo each other. The bands were deliberately spaced out (not with drugs I might add, although they were high on adrenaline) when marching in the same direction.
My hosts told me that it was not a political parade as there were no Orangemen in the parade and it was not associated with the other marches that take place. That said there is no doubt that the bands came from similar communities and were extremely proud of their heritage and some even had fake rifles. To an outsider, it was a demonstration of solidarity and an indoctrination of the youth into the beliefs and principles that the should live by. You would not find a similar event in the UK, although a comparison was drawn to the miner's bands that used to compete across the UK.
In terms of indoctrination, this can be a rather sensitive thing. In simple terms it is instilling a set of values into someone so that they grow and live to a set of standards. If I were to say that some believe that traditional family values are those that we should adopt then it can be argued that we indoctrinate our children to follow those values. I was certainly brought up to respect such values as a child and now as an adult. However, change that to the values and beliefs of the Nazi party and things do not seem quite so straightforward. I am not, I might stress, comparing the competition parades with either family or Nazi values. My point is that those values that are being instilled can be harmful as well as helpful. If such beliefs and values are being reinforced as strongly on the Republican side as they are on the Loyalist side then I feel it will still be some time before we can see a lasting peace. You could equally apply that to a range of conflicts and troubles across the globe and I am not professing to holding the key to solving these problems.
This blog has got rather serious in parts so I will move to my parting experience and an error of judgement on my part. As I was passing through security at the airport the lady behind the conveyor belt asked me to remove my jacket, to which I replied, 'it is a cardigan'. She still insisted that I remove it and asked if I was cold, I said that I just wore it for convenience instead of carrying it. To my utter surprise, I was stopped for a random search when I passed through the metal detector. I clearly linked the two together and thought it rather petty of her but I did not and would never create a fuss over such a thing. I endured a rather odd search, mainly of my hand baggage, where a different lady would pick up various items and give them the most cursory of glances before x-raying them. The only effect this had was to distract them from perhaps more pressing clients that required their attention, maybe I had inadvertently helped someone slip through the net? I have to admit I was relieved to be aboard the aeroplane with knees and testicles intact. It had been a pleasant and educating experience for me and I would definitely return if the opportunity arose, incidentally not for the purpose of being frisked at the airport!
My next post will be about the visit to the Somme battlefield, where the 36th Ulster Division fought.